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 Discussion Tippmann(a-5, c98 et cpro) 
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Inscription: 04 Jan 2008 03:06
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Message Discussion Tippmann(a-5, c98 et cpro)
Citation:
Ceci vien de plusieurs site internet que j'ai regrouper ensemble et le post de Gabux qui parlait du response trigger. J'ai juste regrouper les information et faite le tableaux des mode de tir des different boards.

J'espere sa va vous aider a choisir
Il reste encore beaucoup de stock a couvrir, je vais en rajouter au fur et a mesure que j'ai du temps de libre

Les information écrit on été prit sur:

http://www.tippmannparts.com
http://www.goapeonline.com
http://www.palmer-pursuit.com
http://www.tippmannowners.com
http://www.model98.org
http://www.englerpaintballguns.com
http://paintball.about.com
http://www.rufusdawg.com
http://www.rhythminnovation.com
http://www.pbnation.com

Autres liens utile sur les tippmann:
http://www.a5og.net
http://www.pbnation.com/forumdisplay.php?f=136
http://www.tippmann.com/forum/
http://tippmanncentre.proboards17.com


Tippmann 98 custom:
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Features & Specs :

* Semi Automatic (Open bolt blow-back)
* Front fore-grip
* Removable elbow
* Built-in sight with sight rail
* Bottomline
* Stock barrel length: 8.5 inches
* Caliber: .68
* Cycle rate: 11 bps
* Weight: 2.9 lbs
* Available Colors: Black, silver
* Warranty: 1 year

Shooting: The 98 Custom paintball gun has a fairly easy trigger pull, handles CO2 well, and rarely chops. However, the barrel starts loosing accuracy after 85-100 feet. An aftermarket barrel is a worthwhile investment. For distance, or as a good sniper barrel, the Tippmann Flatline may be your best option.

Maintenance: To clean, just remove the allen wrench screws. Reassembling is a little trickier (but easier than with the old Model 98) – consult the manual. The barrel is removable for easy cleaning on the field. With proper maintenance, the rugged 98 Custom should outlast most other paintball guns in its class.

Upgrades: The 98 Custom is designed to be very easy to upgrade, and there are a ton of accessories made to work with it. Other than the barrel, common upgrades include double triggers or a response trigger for rapid fire. Some people put a stock on it to make it a sniper rifle; others add a drop forward to make the gun more compact. The Tippmann Custom Prohas a 98C body with several upgrades.

Manuel: http://www.tippmannparts.com/downloadFi ... manual.pdf

Tippmann custom pro:
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# Features & Specs: Semi-automatic
# Comes is black, silver, and camouflage
# 11-inch Tippmann Werks Barrel
# Drop Forward
# Dual-Finger trigger (also comes in response trigger and e-trigger versions)
# Stainless Steel Braided Gas Line
# Removable feed elbow for easy chamber access
# Removable Front Grip to Accept X-Chambers and Vertical Tanks

Performance: The Tippmann Custom Pro is basically an upgraded 98 Custom and performs comparably – if you like the 98 Custom, you will probably like the Custom Pro. The Custom Pro comes standard with an 11’ ported Tippmann Werks barrel, which previously had to be purchased after-market. This barrel greatly increases the accuracy of the paintball gun – but it will break cheap or old paintballs. Using good paint is a must with this gun.

The dual finger trigger is not as useful as it could be. The trigger pull is too long and heavy to effectively walk the trigger. That being said, many people will still be able to fire faster with the dual-finger trigger simply because they have greater trigger control with two fingers. The dual finger trigger guard is also large enough to allow gloves – which is nice on cold days.

Maintenance: The Tippmann Custom Pro is easy to maintain. The breech opens easily at the feed elbow to allow quick cleaning of the bolt area if a ball should break in the chamber. Simply push a button, the feed elbow falls back, and the chamber is open. Field stripping the Custom Pro is no easier than stripping the 98 Custom, but luckily this is not usually required. The easy access to the breech through the feed elbow is normally sufficient access for cleaning purposes.

Upgrades: The Tippmann Custom Pro comes standard with the sort of upgrades that owners of the 98 Custom often added after-market: a Tippmann Werks barrel, dual-finger trigger, an upgraded paintjob, and a drop-forward. Some players may prefer the e-grip version of the Custom Pro to the standard dual-trigger. An electronic hopper may also be helpful. regulator or HPA might also be a good upgrade to provide more consistency.

Manuel: http://www.tippmannparts.com/downloadFi ... manual.pdf

Tippmann a-5:
Image

Specs:

* .68 caliber
* semi-automatic
* 15+ BPS
* 8.5” stock barrel
* 3.5 lbs

Image
Image ajouté par Voodoo1

Upgrades: The A5 is easily upgraded, and one upgrade will be essential. The stock barrel must be replaced, it is definitely below par. Besides barrel upgrades (I prefer the A-5 Flatline barrel), the marker does very well with trigger upgrades. The response trigger is recommended, although electronic triggers are also workable. The only problem with an electronic trigger as opposed to the mechanically-driven response trigger is that many fields do not allow them.

Shooting: The A5 is frighteningly fast, and with the right barrel, it is also deadly. However, with the Flatline installed (recommended), it is also loud. This is not the gun configuration for a sniper who wants to fire a shot off and not be discovered. If the Flatline is installed, the opposition will know where you are. Luckily, you will be well out of their range while you are rapidly and accurately raining paintballs down on them. With the appropriate barrel, the A-5 can serve as a very good sniper marker. The A-5 is also useful for those players who prefer to be close and personal in their game. With a response trigger and the cyclone feeder, there are few recreational markers, or even tournament markers, that surpass the firepower that the A-5 can offer.

Maintenance: The A-5 is easily maintained both at home and in the field. Four easily-removed pushpins hold the marker together, and when they are removed the marker breaks down easily to offer quick and efficient cleaning. There are no loose springs to go flying everywhere as there was with some older model Tippmanns.

Manuel: http://www.tippmannparts.com/downloadFi ... manual.pdf

Citation:
Why a-5 are better than the 98 custom

The Similarities

Looking strictly at the design of the marker, the A-5 is what Tippmann has perfected and does best, an open-bolt blow-back semi-automatic paintball marker utilizing Tippmanns' extremely versatile CVX valve. The design is simple and extremely durable, so much so that Tippmann has changed very little in the valve and bolt system design since the 68 Carbine was released some time ago.

Like all modern Tippmann markers, the A-5 utilizes a rear bolt that is driven forward by a drive spring and returned to the ready position by blow-back gasses. The front bolt which opens and closes the breech and releases gas into the barrel is connected to the rear bolt by a linkage arm. As the rear bolt comes forward to strike the valve pin and release the gas, the front bolt forces the paintball into the breech and seals off the barrel before releasing a burst of gas into the barrel, launching the paintball.

The A-5 also uses Tippmanns' old velocity adjustment screw which works not by changing the gas output of the valve, but creating turbulence in the power tube, slowing the air down. This system wastes some gas and a good Rear Velocity Adjuster will fix this.

The Look

Once you get past the basic operation of the A-5, the similarities with the Model 98 begin to end the differences become apparent.

The very first thing that anyone notices about the new Tippmann A-5 is the look of the marker. The M98 and M98c really didn't look all that great in my opinion but they were far from ugly (except those darned gills on the M9. The A-5 has a decidedly "real world" look to it without a hopper and tank on it, resembling an H&K MP5 right down the foregrip, cocking knob and trigger grip frame. Players need not worry about being arrested though, as the A-5 with the Cyclone and a hopper and a tank looks less like a real firearm and more like a paintball marker.

Also noticeable is the MP5 style trigger grip frame which is made primarily for right handed players. Some people prefer 45 style grips so Tippmann made the grip frame removable to accommodate 45 grips or aftermarket Lefty grip frames. J&J performance is working on an aluminum 45 style grip, and Tippmann has recently released an electronic sear tripping E-Grip. The stock A-5 grip frame is made of a plastic polymer to reduce weight, but it's not just cheap plastic, it's ballistics quality stuff and can take a serious amount of abuse.

In fact, a lot of the A-5 is "plastic" instead of aluminum both because of cost and weight. The grip frame and foregrip as well as the main cyclone body and cocking knob are plastic. This reduces weight, so it's not a bad thing, though some people are scared to death of plastic. Tippmann made this marker to last and you need not worry, it's not a Brass Eagle marker after all, it's a Tippmann Marker and we all know how Tippmann stand behind the products they make.

The overall size of the A-5 is a little longer than the M98c and a bit heaver, but this is because the M98c is weighed without a revy hopper and the A-5 has the Cyclone built in. However, due to the low profile and the fact that the hopper and Cyclone feeder fit so close to the marker, the A-5 has a better overall balance to it than the M98c.

The Cyclone Feed System

The second thing that they notice is the Cyclone Feed System, which looks like about half of a soda can with a five arm "star" agitator inside it. The Cyclone Feed System resembles the Star Feed System on the old Tippmann Factory F/A markers from the mid nineties. In fact the Cyclone is the next generation of the same feed system.

The Factory F/A was a fully mechanical Full-Auto paintball marker that, for the most part, wasn't allowed on most fields or in tourneys, and Tippmann needed a reliable and fast feed system to keep up with the F/A, and they came up with the Star Feed system. The Star Feed system came only on the Tippmann Factory F/A markers and used spring tension to load paintballs into the breech each time the bolt opened when a shot was fired. The paintballs rest in the gap of the star arm and as the bolt opens, the feeder turns one stepand loads a paintball into the breech.

The main problems were that the F/A had some timing issues with the delay sears and shocks so the marker could fall out of time and become a blender and everytime you filled the hopper, you had to turn a crank on the bottom of the Star Feed that wound the pring so the marker could fire another 150 rounds before doing it all over again. These problems were solved by Tippmann by linking the Star Feed to a gas powered piston and thus the Cyclone Feed System was born.

The cyclone Feed System works by directing a small portion of the excess blowback gas released by the CVX valve into a piston which forces the cyclone to turn one step. So each time you pull the trigger a paintball is force fed into the chamber and ready for firing again. No matter how fast you shoot, the cyclone loads the next ball just as fast. A common misconception about the Cyclone is that it sucks up extra gas, this is not true, the Cyclone requires a small amount of gas that is normally wasted in the normal operation of a Tippmann blow back.

The Cyclone main body is connected to the marker by a single bolt on the left and two guide pins on the right side and connected to the CVX valve via a valve tap and banjo fitting. There is also a cylinder that houses both the air piston that works the Cyclone and a manual feed knob that you use to force the first paintball into the breach at the beginning of a game.

As paintballs fall into the main feed body, they fall into one of five "star slots" that effectively pre-load the next five shots and keeps them in stand-bye to be fired, just like a gumball machine. As the trigger is pulled, the cyclone advances the "star" one step, forcing the next paintball into the chamber.

The Cyclone acts as a force-feed system, not just an agitating hopper and was factory tested to 16bps and it can handle every bit of that and then some, though you will have to get the Tippmann Reactive Trigger Kit or E-Grip as well as a good flowing High Pressure Air (HPA) tank to realize that potential. To see the A-5 RT w/HPA in action, CLICK HERE and then download the video.

Some of the earlier Cyclone Feed Systems could malfunction when used with HPA or in markers that cycled a ton of paint on a consistant basis, so Tippmann released a Cyclone Upgrade that fixes these problems and will install it free of charge if you send the marker to them or they'll send you the parts if you feel secure enough to install them yourself.

The hopper for the A-5 is a little different looking and has an odd flat face, but it functions just as well as any other hopper. There were reports of Early A-5s having hopper that would break if they took a direct hit from a paintball. These hoppers will be replaced by Tippmann for free if you do break one, and Tippmann has replaced the old plastic hopper with a stronger hopper made with thicker plastic on all new A-5s leaving the factory.

Now a lot of people have been yelling about the size of the cyclone system and how much larger it is that a "normal" hopper such as a Revolution or Evolution. But the facts are that the hopper has a lower profile and is tighter to the marker than any other marker on the market. The Hopper sits a full two inches lower on the A-5 than on a Model 98 with a Revolution on it. the hopper itself is smaller than a revy, only holding slightly more than 160 rounds, but the size difference is really telling. Check out the Cyclone Size Review, also on this reviews page, to see the pictures for yourself.

The Bolt System and Rate of Fire

At first glance, the A-5 seems to utilize the same bolt system as the M98 and M98c but that is far from the truth, A quick look at the rear bolt reveals that it's hollowed out and isn't the same as the rear bolt on the m98. The Rear bolt is just as strong as the m98 bolt, but it's slightly heavier. This heavier bolt is intended to stop the run-away trigger that the M98 had with the RT installed, but the rate of fire isn't effected. IN fact the A-5 can fire faster than the m98 because of the trigger system and the stream-lined design.

The recoil is only slightly heavier than that of the M98c and is barely noticeable for those used to non-electronic markers, however, the rate of fire is radically different.

Tippmann Factory Tested the M98 to 9bps and when they released the 98C, they addressed the complaints of M98 owners about how difficult it was to upgrade the marker and tweaked 11bps out of the 98C. With the A-5, the designers went all out and came up with a marker that can actually fling 15bps mechanically. They lightened the trigger pull and reduced the play in the A-5 trigger and that, combined with the re-designed bolt system, boosted the rate of fire into "high-end" territory.

Now, the average human finger can't pull the trigger 9 times a second, let alone 15, but the potential is there and can be fully recognized with an RT or E-Grip and other upgrades.

Field Stripping the A-5

One of the biggest gripes everyone had with the M98 and 98C series markers was how hard it was to strip down and clean. Even the precursor of the M98, the Pro Series markers, were easier to field strip and clean. The M98 cleaning process was a comlicated and tedious process, involving springs that liked to fly off in different directions and pins that liked to fall out.

The Pro Series markers had a rear sight that held the linkage arm down on both the front and rear bolt. You simply had to remove the rear sight, pop the linkage arm out, take the barrel off and remove the end cap and the rear bolt would come out and the front bolt would come out and you would clean the marker out.

The A-5 is like a mix of the two concepts, allowing you to strip the marker down in less than 60 seconds. Standard cleaning and maintenance can be done by turning the velocity screw all the way in and then pulling out four quick-pull pins, removing the grip and ASA adapter and pulling the entire valve system out of the marker. Though the A-5 is still a clam-shell design like the M98 and 98C, it can be stripped down and cleaned without completely disassembling the marker.

Everything in the A-5 is very modular in design. This becomes evident when fully disassembling the marker. We find that the entire trigger and sear system is a single self-contained part. No more springs flying everywhere when you strip the marker like there was with the M98 and 98C. The one-piece trigger assembly can be broken down easily for installation of a double-trigger or for maintenance sake.


You'll also notice that the A-5 utilizes a completely enclosed bolt system, meaning that there are no openings to the outside anywhere on this marker except the barrel and the breech. This improves on the design of all previous Tippmann markers which have a big hole in the rear-bolt area that allowed paint and dirt and other outside contaminants into the bolt system and that could result in wear and malfunction. The A-5 is completely closed off to the outside, making it harder for anything to get inside causing problems.

Upgrade Options

Out of the box, the A-5 features more upgrade options for the player than any previous Tippmann marker. Built into the valve system is a vertical Tombstone adapter which will accept any regulator or expansion chamber with standard threads. This eliminates the need to upgrade the M98 and 98C to accomplish the same thing. The A-5 also features a completely removable grip frame so switching to the E-grip of new J&J Performance 45 Style Grip frame is easy as pulling two pins and changing the bottomline ASA out.

The fore-grip can be moved about an inch forward or back or can be completely replaced with any number of aftermarket front grips, including an adapter by Lapco that allows you to mount the front grip at a 90 degree angle similar to the old British Sten Guns or, in paintball, the old SMG-60 and SMG-68s that Tippmann first made back at the very beginning. The front grip can also be completely removed if you so desire, quite unlike the foregrip on the M98 and M98c which is a part of the receiver body.

The ASA can be removed altogether and you can run vertical if you desire or you can get the Lapco universal adapter and use ANY drop forward you want.

Also worth mentioning is that the barrel threads of the A-5 are removable and exchangeable. The A-5 is shipped with a Pro-Carb barrel thread adapter which accepts almost all Pro-series barrels and well as most F-4 barrels, but if you want, you can get a series of aftermarket adapters that allow you to use spyder, m98 and other style barrels on your A-5.

Overall, the A-5 was built to be even easier to upgrade than the 98C which was released primarily due to demand for a easier-to-upgrade Tippmann marker than the M98. The kits that were supposedly "drop in" for the M98 and 98C are truly drop in kits for the A-5. The RT drops into the A-5 in less than 15 minutes if you are familiar with the marker and requires very little alteration to the grip in the removing of a single tab. The E-Grip can be installed in less than a minute. The A-5 Flatline comes as a one piece modular barrel system which twists on with a quarter turn and aligns itself to the marker easier than the old style M98 or 98C Flatline.

You can do just about anything to the A-5 that you can do to an M98 or 98C unless the product hasn't been released yet. The upgrades are coming out all the time so just be patient and you'll have everything you could possibly want to add to your A-5.

Conclusion

In conclusion, the A-5 is the next evolution in the Tippmann line of markers. It corrects the majority of complaints players had with the M98 and 98C series markers, improves on the design and performance, and and does this without sacrificing any of the Tippmann reputation for building the most reliable and durable markers on the planet.

If you do find that you have a problem, Tippmann has the best customer service on the planet and you can count on them to solve it for you, often free of charge and often for the life of the marker. In fact, Take a SMG-60 to a Tippmann Trailer at a big game than they'll do everything that they can to make sure it works like new for you.

The A-5 out performs the M98c in every way and holds it's own against markers twice it's price.

Oh yes, the price. People are always griping about the price. Well, since it's release, the A-5 has gone from $350+ down to $210 for a stock A-5. They argue that the "A-5 is basically an M98" and "any M98 can be modified to function just like an A-5."

Let's face facts here. If you buy a Model 98 Custom ($125), a vertical adapter ($25), 12 volt Revy hopper ($55), a quick strip thumb screw set ($15), and a FullBoar rear cocking knob ($30), you're going to have spent $250+ and guess what, you still have the same bolt system and are still only going to get 9 to 11bps without further upgrades. You might as well save the extra $30 and get an A-5 which not only looks better, but also performs better and is easier to maintain.

And even A-5s with RTs are selling for around $260 now, so the price is coming down. Remember, everything new is more expensive than it should be and once they age a little the price drop inline.

The A-5 is a great High-mid-level marker that can grow with you as you grow as a player. It can hang with the "big dogs" out of the box, but with a little work, you can put together a truly awesome marker.

I hope this helps clear up some misconceptions about the A-5, because the A-5 is definately the best marker in the Mid-level class of paintball markers.


Citation:
A-5 Upkeep:

Things to do before you sit down. Get yourself:

*A towel
*Some allen wrenches
*Some lubricant (o-ring safe)
*Flathead screwdriver

Now that we have that, clear off a work space in a comfortable, well lit area. Set the towel down first, and lay everything on top of that. This way, screws/bolts won't roll as easily, and everything stays nice and clean.

With that said, take off the barrel, hopper, and tank. Place those off to the side, they are not needed, obviously.

Next, take out all of the pull-pins (there are 4) and place them somewhere safe. After that is done, you can take off the trigger frame. Take that off in addition to unscrewing any regulator/expansion chamber/vertical adapter/or standard air fitting you might have running into the body of the A5. Place those to the side as well. You will not need to mess with the grip frame during disassembly. Any trigger modifications can be done simply by removing the two related pull pins and handling it seperatly. You should have also removed the back plate/drive spring/oring by now, because if you haven't they will shoot out and you will loose them.

So to recap: pull pins out, back plate/spring/oring out, grip frame and air connections off.

Got that done? Good.

Not you can remove the Cyclone feed and the front grip. The cyclone feed is removed by undoing the hose running in (detaching from A5 body or cyclone itself with flathead screwdriver) and then removing the bolt (it takes a larger allen wrench then the rest) that goes through the body accross from the feeder. The front grip can be removed by using an allen wrench. You simply need to put the wrench into the grip longways, situate it in the bolt, and loosen. Place those off to the side as well.

Now you are able to undo the rest of the bolts and open up the A5. As soon as you take off the top receiver, you will need to do a few things.

First: look at where everything goes. It will be kind of difficult to reassemble it if you aren't paying attention
Second: take out the ball detent (orange rubber thing). It will come out easily
Third: also take the tension off of the spring attached to the front cocking mechanism. It can fly off very easily.
Fourth if you remove the valve/power tube/vertical adapter for ANY reason, note the spring that is applying pressure on the vertical adapter. You will NEED to make sure it is situated in the same fashion upon reassembly.

At this point, you are free to do anything inside of the marker. Polish the internals, install new things, or lubricate and clean the marker.

No matter what you are doing, apply more lubrication upon completion.

When reinstalling, make sure that all sights, springs, and ball detents are seated properly, while making sure that you do NOT force the receiver closed.

Happy paintballing

Citation:
How cyclone work:
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Cyclone Operation Detailed Breakdown

Okay so here is how it all goes down. When you fire the marker air goes by the path of least resistence. So at first there's no blowback gas, it all goes straight up to thru the CVX channels and powertube. Once it hits the paintball there's resistence and air can start to build up pressure with the hammer (rear bolt).

With the A-5 in particular there is a small exhaust hole on the side of the powertube. This is in the open area of the powertube when the valve is installed. So when air goes thru the channels... no air yet going to cyclone. It only gets air when blowback gas finally starts to build! That's very important and crucial to the timing of the Cyclone (quite ingenious).

Any ways the blowback gas will both shove the hammer back, but also shove the Cyclone piston forward.

Now as you can see from this animation the yellow portion is the gas source. Here's a breakdown of each individual part.

2-shaded green: Ratchet - Part Number 02-53
Blue: Feeder Axel - Part Number 02-49
Red: Feeder Ratchet Spring - Part Number 02-50
Light Blue: Plunger U-ring - Part Number02-63

So as the gas makes the way through the air fittings and into the shaft the U-ring expands. Holds air to make the plunger move forward. Think of it like you're sitting on a skateboard holding an umbrella. Gust of 50mph wind comes by… you're cruising! Same thing here.

As the plunger moves forward the Ratchet swivels around. The Feeder Axel doesn't move because the Ratchet Spring holds it in place. But once the Ratchet is all the way forward, by this time all the air is now pushing the ball out the barrel. So the air vents and allows the Plunger Spring to pull back. And back comes the Ratchet.

The Ratchet grabs onto the Feeder Axel and pulls it. As it does this the Cyclone Star will begin to spin. That process will chamber the next paintball into the A-5's breech.


Citation:
Polishing internal 98 custom-custom pro

Polishing your internals will reduce friction inside the gun which allows for a smoother mechanism, and less wear! This is a very popular and easy to do mod, every Tippmann Model 98 Custom owner should try it.

Procedures: Take your gun completely apart. You should only have the two receiver halves. Wash your gun with warm water and soap to get rid of any oil or residue which will make polishing more difficult. Be sure to completely dry it with a clean towel.

There are a few ways you can do this mod. I'm going to cover the most popular First method is to use a Dremel rotary tool.

You'll need: A Dremel tool
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Polishing wheel for your Dremel
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Mothers Mag Aluminum Polish (or other brand)
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This is by far the easiest way to polish, as electricity does all the work

Use a polishing wheel and apply aluminum polish (Mothers Mag brand is best). Turn on your Dremel and polish the areas shaded by the picture.
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When your polishing wheel gets dirty or loses all its polish, apply more. Keep going until the metal becomes a shiny silver color. It should start to look like this.

Wash and dry the gun again to get rid of the polish residue and dust.
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Quick strip mod 98 custom-custom pro

This is a very simple, but extremely effective and helpful mod. By cutting your left side receiver in half, you can quickly get to whatever area you need without taking the entire gun apart. You can use a Dremel with a cutting disk -or- a good old fashioned hack saw.

Refer to the pictures to give you some ideas of where to make the cut. You can cut your gun just like one of these pictures, or figure out a new way for yourself. Make sure your cut doesn't interfere with moving parts, and make sure you don't cut where a pin or screw would have to go. Make sure you fully disassemble your gun before you cut!

Also make sure your cut suites your setup best. For example the first picture's cut is best for the E-bolt, since you don't have to mess with all the electronics every time you want to clean your front bolt.

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The above picture was done with a hacksaw and a .015" thickness blade.


Citation:
*The Infamous Pen Spring Mod for your 98 custom or custom pro*

Materials
Clicky (mechanical) pen or pencil
Wire cutters (small)

1:Take apart the (mechanical) pen or pencil, at the bottom of the pencil you will see a spring
take that spring out and set it to the side.
2:You must disassemble your 98 custom, you will see a spring under the left part of your trigger this is the trigger return spring, take the spring out.
3: Compare the length of the trigger return spring to the stock spring if it is not the same length take your wire cutters and (mechanical) cut the pen (pencil) spring to the same length as the stock spring.
4: Place your new spring into the place of your stock trigger return spring.
5: Put your gun back together

This mod with lighten your trigger pull.
Works extremely well with the custom pro e and e-bolted 98 custom but, will work with a mech / R.T. cp or 98.


Citation:
Assembly Instructions For Flatline Barrel System:

1) Remove the existing barrel.
2) All Model 98's and 98 customs under 8,000 (serial #), skip step 3 & 4.
3) Refer to your owner's manual: Remove cover or left half of receiver.
4) Remove rear sight assembly & put left receiever half back on. (Skip step 5 & 6)
5) Remove sight by removing the E-clip on the adjuster screw.
6) Remove screw & sight assembly.

Installing Flatline Barrel, adapter, and shroud

Step 1
Loosen 3 bolts on the receiver in order to take the tension off of the barrel area.

Location of 3 bolts:

* Bolt 1: at front sight
* Bolt 2: at front grip
* bolt 3: above trigger guard

Step 2
Install Flatline adapter.

Allign the adapter so that the pinch bolt tab is centered in the 6oclock positioni.

Step 3
Install Flatline shroud.

* Remove the bolt from the rear of shroud.
* Install shroud on top of the marker and insert screw through the hole in the rear sight, then tighten.

Step 4
Install barrel.

* Apply oil to the inside surface of the barrel adapter.
* Apply oil to the outside surface of the barrel up to the end of the flat notch.
* Slide barrel through handle with the flat notch on top.
* Once the barrel starts into the adapter, tap (using a rubber mallet) the front of the new barrel to make sure it slides all the way into the adapter.
* Re-tighten all three receiver bolts.
* Tighten adapter pinch bolt.

Note:
If the flight of your paintballs is constintently to the right, you will need loosen the adapter pinch bolt and rotate the barrel counter clockwise. If the paintballs fly to the left, rotate the barrel clockwise.


E-grip and Agtermarket board

Rampage Board:
Image

Was Board:
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E-grip Board:
Image

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Comparison Chart Highlights

* FIRING MODE SELECTION
The Rampage Board is the ONLY board featuring EASY "ONE PRESS" firing mode selection:
- Simply press the mode switch to change INSTANTLY between any of the 7 firing modes.

To change modes with the Tippmann E-grip board:
- Pull out your mini-phillips screwdriver and fumble around with that easy to strip rotary switch.
- Fire the marker to determine what mode you're in.
- Repeat until you find the mode you want.

To change modes with the WAS board:
- Turn off the marker
- Hold in the trigger and push the power button again
- Let it initialize
- Scroll to the 4th menu item and select it
- Program the new mode
- Wait for it to acknowledge the new mode
- Power off the marker
- FINALLY, TURN IT BACK ON and if the game hasn't ended you can go play...

* ON/OFF OPERATION
The Rampage board will never let you down with its INSTANT ON, INSTANT OFF capability... Each time you pull the trigger the Rampage board wakes up from a deep sleep mode to fire the solenoid. When the trigger is inactive it goes back into a deep sleep mode - INSTANTLY. No timeouts, no hold-offs or delays, just smart design!

WAS... Imagine sleuthing around in a scenario game. You've moved stealthily for quite awhile to get into the perfect spot. You're poised to take out the whole enemy squad as they march up the trail right into your sights... you pull the trigger to rip a full auto burst... scratch that, WAS doesn't offer a full auto mode... so you pull the trigger to fire your marker and... NOTHING!! You've just discovered another exclusive WAS board feature - the auto shutoff. So, now as you're getting pelted with paintballs, you fumble for a tool to turn your marker back on... oh wait... tools on the field are illegal! D'OH!

* FULLY OPTIMIZED PSP3 MODE
Only the Rampage tournament version board delivers true, fully optimized PSP3 ramping. The Rampage provides a seamless transition between semi, 3-shot burst, and a full 15 BPS paint stream. This enables an entirely new firing dynamic to Tippmann users for PSP3 tournament play.

The Tipmman E-grip doesn't even offer PSP3 ramping and the WAS board 3-shot ramping short changes your paint delivery by only providing semi-auto or 15 BPS paint only.

* PROGRAMMABLE RAMPING AND FIRING MODES
Both the Tippmann E-Grip and the WAS Equalizer have fixed, non-programmable ramping points. The net result is there are 5 fixed modes of firing for each board.

Only the Rampage board allows you to program your ramping points for both Turbo+ mode and Rampage mode. Each of these modes has an adjustable ramping point between 2 and 10 trigger pulls, which nets 9 different variations for each mode. If you consider each of these 9 combinations as a unique mode, the Rampage board delivers a whopping 23 DIFFERENT FIRING MODE COMBINATIONS.

Response Trigger
Image
À ne pas confondre avec certains response de board électronique.

-Le Response Trigger mécanique est un piston qui va faire rebondire la gachette en poussant dessus avec le surplus d'air qui s'échape lors de la détonation du mécanisme, lorsque tu gardes ton doigt au millieu, tu tires full auto jusqu'à 17 bps. La vis sur le côté droit permet de monter ou descendre les bps. Tu peux tirer de 1 à 17 bps si tu veux. Cette vis peut être ajusté sur le terrain avec un ongle, même pas besoin de tourne vis.
Si tu appuis sur la gachette dans le fond, tu tires une balle.
Tu contrôles ton tire. Le tout, mécaniquement.
Aucune pile, rien d'électronique.

ASP M98 Pump Kit:
Image

We developed this kit for an Australian field that wanted to convert their semiauto Model 98 field rentals into pump action guns that would be legal for use under the country's stringent anti-gun laws. Thankfully for the Aussies, recent legislation has made allowances for semiauto paint guns.

The conversion generated a lot of interest when we showed it off at the Fall 2003 Castle Conquest, and we're finally making it available as a kit. The kit includes everything needed to convert your M98 into a pump:

* CMI Pro/Carbine 16" barrel with stainless pump stop collar
* Lapco Pro/Carbine to M98 barrel adapter
* Pump grip
* Pump rod and cocking plate
* Cocking knob
* Modified valve body with blowback restrictor plate
* Red, green, and blue Maddman mainsprings cut to length (to eliminate pre-load on an uncocked hammer)

QEV Kit:
Image

Speeds up the cyclone rate by redirecting the exhaust air out of the High Flow QEV rather than pushing back through the line. In simple terms... The QEV exhaust air to a shorter path and has no affect on efficiency. Recommended for all Tippmans. This kit will work on both Low Pressure and High Pressure Tippmanns.

Vortex mod:
Image

We found that we were able to make the cyclone loader work at lower pressures. During testing we ran the A5 until we ran out of air. The result was that the loader continued to load balls all the way down to 100-150 psi. At that point the gun stopped re-cocking. Understand that results will vary a bit based on the condition of your cyclones internal oring, and how well its lubrcated. But know that it will feed at lower pressures.
Typically the stock parts stop loading balls at about 350-400 lbs. That's enough pressure to still shoot about 200fps, but you are forced to manually feed each ball by hand. With the Vortex Mod, you're cyclone will keep you in the game longer.
So, if you are sick of buying replacement internals for your Cyclone Feed, and you want the most durable, efficient, and fastest parts available, these little beauties are for you. These parts are made of anodized aluminum.

Shocktech Superfly Front Bolt:
Image

Precision machine turned from self-lubricating delrin plastic. Lightweight, yet strong and extremely durable. An external o-ring to help seal and minimize blow back. But more importantly an internal o-ring to seal against the Power Tube. Allowing for a more consistent acceleration of the paintball. The Tippmann bolt and valve that comes standard in your marker is already a very efficient design. That's why most other aftermarket bolts don't do anything to improve the gun! The best, most cost effective way we've found to make it BETTER was to add the internal o-ring. Something nobody else has done..... Yet... Gas efficiency went up noticeably, but more importantly our testing showed a significantly tighter chrono grouping!

The bolt gained a plus / minus figure of 6 Feet per second over stock!

Tippmann Cyclone Feed System:
Image

The cyclone system is linked to the air system for synchronized ball feeding. Reduces breakage and jamming.

The faster you shot, the faster it feeds! up to 15 balls per second.

Tippmann Compressed Air Low Pressure System :
Image
Image

Replace your stock internals with this efficiency upgrade. It features a flush cocking system, slot cover, quick disconnect set, light weight hammer, low pressure chamber, and vertical adapter. Nitrogen or Compressed Air and a consistent regulator are a must to get all the accuracy and shots per tank this kit can provide.

The system will work on CO2 also but you'll get better consistency by upgrading to a compressed air tank. If you are going to use CO2 we'd recommend a Palmer Stabalizer or AKALMP Sidewinder Regulator.

Trigger

Rufus dawg[/b]:
Image
Image

Advanced features and innovative design make these triggers the hottest out there. Includes an adjustable trigger stop to increase trigger spring back speed for even faster firing rate.

Rampage trigger:
Image

The APE Milsim Pro Trigger for the A5
Black Anodized Aluminum Double Trigger
Black Anodized Aluminum Side Plates
Magnetic Return (Replaces the Front Spring!)
Hardened Armature Pin
Black Anodized Aluminum Trigger Guard
Three-Way Adjustable

Image

Rampage Pro Trigger Assembly for the A5
Black Anodized Aluminum Double Trigger
Black Anodized Aluminum Side Plates
Magnetic Return (Replaces the Front Spring!)
Hardened Armature Pin
Black Anodized Aluminum Trigger Guard
Three-Way Adjustable

Image

Rampage Pro-E Trigger
Black Anodized Aluminum Double Trigger
Ball Bearing Pivot Point
Two-Way Adjustable

Rhythm trigger:
Image

Magnetic Trigger for Custom pro and Pro-e markers

* Magnetic return
* Rear stop and switch is adjustable with taking anything apart
* Comes with an aluminum trigger guard
* Also included is a stainless steel trigger pin

Stealth trigger:
Image

A5 Stealth Trigger

# **WORKS WITH E-GRIPS ONLY** Ball bearing for smooth operation and less play
# Adjustable rear stop
# Adjustable switch position
# Milled to reduce weight
# Scallops for comfort and speed
# Stainless steel pivot pin

JCS trigger:
Image

a-5
Adjustable throw and sensitivity. Take out trigger "bounce". Standard black anodized aluminum. Includes trigger, composite trigger guard, and hardware. The marker safety is set by pushing the trigger forward slightly. This causes better engagement of the trigger and firing switch. A properly set up trigger will not fire when "jarred" or "shaken" around, pointed up, horizontal, or down; or fire when the safety is released.

PMI trigger:
Image

98c
Easy drop in modification. Replaces the stock trigger with a two fingered trigger. The bottom groove is milled into a complete circle. Provides leverage and has more of an electronic feel.

Engler trigger:
Image

ENGLER CUSTOM PAINTBALL GUNS is proud to announce the release of its latest Ball bearing adjustable trigger for the Tippmann™ Custom Pro with E -Grip

The ENGLER CUSTOM PAINTBALL GUNS adjustable trigger is an aluminum, magnetic 3 way ball bearing drop in replacement for the stock double trigger.

This trigger gives the shooter unprecedented speed and very different trigger pull in a Tippmann™ marker. The 3 adjustments also give the shooter the ability to adjust the trigger to their own settings

JCS Red Hot Power Tube:
Image

This trick accessory from JCS is a red anodized aluminum power tube. Replace the plastic power tube in the A-5 with their precision machined aircraft aluminum power tube.

Enjoy a tight fitting front velocity screw design. A nylon set screw securely holds that front velocity screw tight! Still adjustable but tight enough it won't vibrate out.

Dead On Paintball A5 Pro Seal Front Bolt and Power Tube:
Image

The Dead On A5 Pro-Seal is a power tube and delrin front bolt replacement for the stock plastic powertube and front bolt. The front bolt is made from 6061-T6 aluminum and has a .375 long delrin bushing for a smoother sliding surface. Newer versions of the bolt now have an ALL delrin front bolt. The picture shows the aluminum version but the bolt you get will now be delrin unless Dead On switches back to aluminum. There will be no performance differences. The Dead On powertube is CNC machined from 6061-T6 aluminum barstock to Tippmann specs.

Performance Enhancements: Reliable power tube that will never crack as the plastic stock version might. The A5 will be a little more efficient because of the bushing length, less blowby.

Dead On Paintball 98C Pro Seal Bolt & Power Tube:
Image

Upgrade to a more efficient internal seal system. Great replacement set that yields more shots per tank and better air usage. Stay on the field longer!

The Dead On 98C Pro-Seal is a 6061-T6 billeted aluminum power tube and delrin front bolt replacement for the stock plastic powertube and front bolt. The front bolt has a .375" long delrin bushing for a smoother sliding surface. This creates a more reliable power tube that will never crack as the plastic stock version. Newer versions have an ALL delrin front bolt as shown in the picture. Your 98 Custom will also be a little more efficient because of the bushing length giving the gun less blowby.

Rufus Dawg Wicked Bolt and Power Tube [A5,98C, CPro, M98]:
Image

Increase The Performance, Accuracy And Efficiency Of Your Tippmann Marker
with Rufus Dawg's NEW "WICKED BOLT".

Venturi Bolt Design:
::Allows more even distribution of the Air Blast on the paintball.
The result is a more consistant shot due to less deformation of the ball.

Full Paintball Cradle:
::Full conical shape on the front of the bolt which "Cradles" the
ball so it does not deform on contact.

Flexible Rear Seal:
::Provides a full seal around the powertube without extra drag or
friction.

Guide Rails:
::The rails provide an outer track to guide the bolt inside the body.
Less contact rusults in less friction and wear.

Recessed Pockets:
::The recessed pockets on the outer shape are designed to hold paint
and shell fragments from boken paintballs, keeping them from hurting
performance.

Delrin Material:
::Molded from Delrin, a strong self lubricating plastic.


20 Jan 2008 12:29
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Inscription: 28 Jan 2008 18:28
Messages: 38
Message Re: Discussion Tippmann(a-5, c98 et cpro)
Je viens de trouver un mod vraiment cool pour le A5. Je l'ai pas essayé mais bon il m'apparait excellent et sa donne vraiment un look unique.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E9KPX8Tt ... re=related


09 Avr 2008 13:02
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Inscription: 21 Aoû 2008 20:00
Messages: 1
Message Re: Discussion Tippmann(a-5, c98 et cpro)
J'aurais une question, j'ai un vieux tippman 98 et je me demandais si certaine pieces des tippmans 98 custom (canon, barrel shrouds par exemple ah ah ) fit sur le tippman 98


29 Aoû 2008 20:58
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Inscription: 27 Jan 2008 22:38
Messages: 332
Localisation: Montréal - P.A.T
Message Re: Discussion Tippmann(a-5, c98 et cpro)
oui


06 Sep 2008 13:04
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Inscription: 28 Jan 2008 01:41
Messages: 211
Message Re: Discussion Tippmann(a-5, c98 et cpro)
Bonjour.

Le petit rats ses enfin procure un C98, Je l'ai mit R/T et j'ai rajouter un cyclone. en magasinant les RT sur le net, jai vue des bolt et des power tube Afther marquet a vendre.

Je me suis un peut fais expliquer a quoi sert de changer le Power tube, mais jaimerais savoir si ses vraiment utile ?

Si il brise, moi j'en est un de rechange, mais sinon, sa sert a quoi de changer sa?

Et la bolt elle? sur les autre marqueur... sa reduit le kick, mais sur un 98, jimagine que sa sert a autre chose?

Voila mon Set up:
C98 + home made Mod's ( Le body droit a ete couper en 2, pognier avant aussi, interne polie, re-peinture ( que je vais moi meme refair) J'ai mod une des pin de la trigger,couper un foret de .1285 de diametre, la Queu, pour remplacer la pin stock)
R/T
Cyclone systeme
Progressif 16"

Je prevoie ajouter: CFS ( jpa sur pour le nom?) Hose kit, les hose de 1/8.
Pour le Cyclone, ece que je dois ajouter quelque chose si je compte tire du.. 10-12 bps dans le top ?
des conseille pour la peinture, quelle marque utiliser, combien de couche?

Dautre Mod utile pour un 98C RT ? Jai acces a de belle machine ( Milling Machine Conventionelle et tour conventionel)


27 Sep 2008 21:07
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Inscription: 16 Avr 2009 10:21
Messages: 21
Localisation: laval
Message Re: Discussion Tippmann(a-5, c98 et cpro)
Salut, Jai une petite question. Jaimerais savoir s'il me manque quelque chose a ameliorer sur mon marqueur ou a enlever lol. voici mes upgrades
-Barrel et handguard m16
-e-grip
-rail mount avec red dot
-squishy paddles
-remote coil
-bonbonne nitro
-crosse retractable
-kit lightning rod avec ratchet et piston
En gros c sa haha .


16 Avr 2009 10:29
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Inscription: 16 Fév 2011 22:55
Messages: 3
Message Re: Discussion Tippmann(a-5, c98 et cpro)
Salut, je voudrais savoir si les upgrades de l'ancien A-5 était compatible avec le nouveau A-5. merci d'avance


10 Juin 2011 17:49
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Inscription: 05 Juin 2011 20:06
Messages: 4
Message Re: Discussion Tippmann(a-5, c98 et cpro)
Comment on fait pour savoir si on a le vieux a-5 ou le nouveau?


10 Juin 2011 21:56
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Inscription: 20 Déc 2011 14:49
Messages: 29
Message Re: Discussion Tippmann(a-5, c98 et cpro)
Tippmann24 a écrit:
Comment on fait pour savoir si on a le vieux a-5 ou le nouveau?

Je me suis demandé ca moi aussi quand j'ai acheté le mien, j'ai donc écrit a Tippmann, et ils m'ont donnés une réponse assez simple.
Si le ''Tippmann A-5'' est une plaque ovale sur le marqueur, c'est un pré 2011
Si le ''Tippmann A-5'' est écrit en relief a même le ''body'' du marqueur, c'est un 2011


15 Fév 2012 23:40
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Inscription: 30 Juil 2009 22:48
Messages: 56
Message Re: Discussion Tippmann(a-5, c98 et cpro)
les new a5 2011 sont construit sur une base assé différente...on peut enlever la bavette avant , la grip est différente , etc. Les vieux a5 sont plus compliqué a différiencié , parcontre un voie une différence dans la grip ainsi qu'une légère différence sur le "tippmann a5" ( inscription ). Next time , check la date , le gars a posté l'an passé!

_________________
lucky,alphastrike team lasalle


16 Fév 2012 01:24
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